If you have been grooming for any length of time, you will know the kennel clip is one of the most useful things in your kit. It is the honest, low-fuss, easy-care all-over clip that gets a dog comfortable, clean and ready to grow out well. Owners sometimes call it a summer cut or a puppy cut, but between us we know it as a short, even, functional trim that puts the dog's comfort first.
I reach for it more often than people expect. A pelted doodle, a matted cockapoo, a senior who cannot cope with a long session, a working dog whose owner just wants tidy and practical. The kennel clip earns its place because it is quick, kind and repeatable. Here is how I approach it on the salon floor.
When a kennel clip is the right call
A kennel clip is not a lazy option, it is a considered one. I choose it when a longer style would mean hours of stress for the dog, or when the coat simply cannot carry length safely. Think tight matting, a coat that has been left too long, a dog who struggles to stand for scissor work, or an owner who has been honest that they cannot keep up with home brushing.
It is also a brilliant reset. Take a coat right back, get the skin healthy and the brushing manageable, then grow it out into a fuller style over the next few grooms. I would far rather send a dog home short and happy than perfect and sore.
Welfare note: Never let vanity override welfare. If the coat is pelted to the skin, a short clip is the humane choice. The dog's comfort always beats the owner's picture on their phone.
Coat prep before you clip
Good clipping starts long before the clipper touches the dog. Give the coat a thorough brush and comb through wherever you can, checking for lumps, warts, skin tags and sore spots so you know where to slow down. Note anything unusual to mention to the owner and, where relevant, suggest a vet check.
If the coat is genuinely matted through, I will often do a rough clip before the bath to open it up, because bathing a pelted coat just tightens the mats further. A dirty coat also blunts blades fast, so getting product and grime out first protects your kit.
Bath and high-velocity dry
Bathe with a shampoo suited to the coat and skin, rinse until the water runs completely clear, then condition if the coat needs it. Rinsing matters more than people think, because residue leaves the coat sticky and drags on the blade.
Dry properly with a high-velocity dryer, working the coat straight and fully dry to the skin. A damp or fluffy coat clips unevenly and hides lines you will only spot later. A well-dried coat, on the other hand, lets the blade glide and gives you that clean, even finish.
Choosing your blade
Blade choice is where the kennel clip is made or lost. There is no single right answer, it depends on coat type, skin condition and how much length the owner wants left on.
- For a genuine short kennel finish on most coats, a longer blade such as a 4F or 5F leaves a sensible, comfortable length that is kind to the skin.
- For a slightly fuller look, a longer snap-on comb over a shorter blade gives you length with an even finish.
- Only go shorter, down to a 7F or a 10, when the coat is badly matted or when hygiene genuinely demands it. The shorter you go, the more you expose the skin, so proceed with care.
Whatever you choose, keep blades sharp, clean and cool. A hot blade is the fastest way to catch skin, so check the temperature against your own wrist regularly and rotate blades or use a cooling spray as you work.
Working through the clip
Clip in the direction of coat growth for a smooth, comfortable finish, keeping the blade flat against the skin and letting it do the work rather than pressing down. Start along the back and work down the sides in long, even strokes, following the shape of the body.
Take real care over the bony bits, the hips, shoulders, spine, hocks and elbows, where the skin sits close to bone and catches easily. Move loose skin taut with your free hand as you go. Around the tummy, armpits and inside the back legs, slow right down, because that skin is thin and delicate.
Leave the head, ears, feet and sanitary areas until the end and tidy them by hand. Even on a functional clip, a neatly scissored face and tidy feet make the difference between a rushed job and a groom the owner is proud of.
Finishing and the final check
Once the body is clipped, run your comb back through to catch any longer bits, then scissor-tidy the feet, face and tail to soften the outline. Give the whole dog a final feel-over for stray lengths and comfort.
Check the skin one last time for any nicks, redness or irritation, and make a note on the record card of blade used and coat condition, so the next groom is even smoother.
Frequently asked questions
What blade gives a true kennel clip length?
For most coats a 4F or 5F gives a comfortable, easy-care short length without going right to the skin. Save 7F and 10 for matted or hygiene work where you have no choice but to go shorter.
Can I kennel clip a double coat?
I avoid clipping a healthy double coat, because it can change how the coat regrows and remove the insulation the dog relies on. If a double-coated dog is shedding heavily, deshed rather than clip. Only clip a double coat when matting leaves no kinder option, and always explain the trade-offs to the owner.
How do I stop the blade catching on bony areas?
Keep the skin taut with your free hand, use a flat, light touch, and slow down over hips, hocks, elbows and the spine. A longer blade also gives you more margin for error over bone.
How often should a kennel clip be repeated?
Every six to eight weeks keeps most coats comfortable and easy to manage. For dogs prone to matting or with mobility issues, a regular short clip is often the kindest ongoing plan.
Written from the salon floor by Lucy, City & Guilds Level 2 & 3 qualified groomer and owner of Fluffs, a one-to-one dog grooming salon in Wigginton, York. For more professional grooming guides, explore the Fluffs grooming blog.
External references for further reading: Dog grooming (Wikipedia) and RSPCA advice on grooming.