There is something lovely about a Berner on the table. They tend to be big, gentle, patient souls, and the coat is a joy to work when it is kept up. The challenge with this breed is not the trim, because there really is not much trimming to it, but the sheer volume of undercoat you will move and the physical work of drying a dog this size. Get your deshedding and drying dialled in and a Bernese groom becomes one of the most satisfying jobs of your week.
Here is how I take a Bernese Mountain Dog from start to finish.
The coat: thick, double, and built for the Alps
The Bernese carries a moderately long, thick double coat with a silky, slightly wavy topcoat over a dense undercoat. It was bred to work Swiss farms in cold weather, and you can see that heritage in every handful of undercoat you rake out. The Bernese Mountain Dog breed background gives the history if you are interested, but on the table your job is clear: move the dead undercoat, keep the coat healthy, and preserve those working layers.
This is a natural breed. We are not sculpting a Berner into a shape. We are deshedding, cleaning, and lightly tidying so the dog looks smart and stays comfortable.
Step one: pre-brush and assess
Start dry. Go over the whole dog with a slicker and an undercoat rake to find the density and any tangles. Berners hold undercoat behind the ears, in the trousers, round the ruff and under the belly, so check those first. The feathering on the legs and tail tangles too, especially if the dog has been out in wet grass.
Take your time here. Getting the worst of the loose coat and any knots out before the bath means your dryer does far less fighting later.
Groomer's tip: With a dog this big, protect your own body as much as the coat. Set your table height properly, use a grooming arm and loop for safety but never leave the dog unattended on the table, and encourage the dog to stand square rather than leaning on you. A comfortable, well-supported large dog is far easier and safer to work than one you are wrestling.
Step two: bath with deshedding in mind
Bath with a deshedding or clarifying shampoo worked right down to the skin. On a coat this dense, a two-lather approach often makes sense: one to clean, one to loosen and lift the undercoat. Follow with a light conditioner to keep the topcoat glossy and reduce static.
Rinsing is everything on a Berner. There is so much coat that shampoo hides in the undercoat and, if left, leaves the dog itchy and the coat looking flat. Rinse well past the point you think you are done.
Step three: high-velocity dry and deshed
This is the heart of a Bernese groom. The high-velocity dryer does two jobs at once: it dries the coat and it blasts out the loosened dead undercoat. Work systematically in the direction of coat growth, section by section, and you will see clouds of undercoat come away. This is exactly what you want.
Keep the nozzle moving so you never concentrate air or warmth in one place, and be gentle around the face, ears and any bony points. As you dry, follow behind with the undercoat rake and a deshedding tool to clear what the dryer lifts. Work through the feathering carefully so it dries straight rather than crimped.
Step four: light tidy and feathering
Once the dog is bone dry and deshed, the finishing is minimal and tasteful. Tidy the hair between and around the pads and neaten the feet into a natural shape. Clean up the sanitary area and any stragglers under the tail for hygiene. Some groomers lightly neaten the hocks and the ear edges, but the golden rule is subtle. A Berner should look natural, never barbered.
The feathering on the legs and the plume of the tail can be lightly tipped to remove split, ragged ends, but do not thin or shorten it into a different shape. Comb the ruff out so it frames the dog, give the whole coat a final rake and comb through, and check your work from a few feet back.
Step five: nails, ears and the once-over
Finish with nails, taking care as many Berners have dark nails where the quick is hard to see. Check and clean the ears, and because this is a heavy-eared breed, make sure they are dry after the bath. As you go over the dog, use your hands to note any lumps, hot spots or sore points and flag anything of concern to the owner to check with their vet. The PDSA Pet Health Hub is a sensible resource to point owners towards for general health questions.
Frequently asked questions
Do Bernese Mountain Dogs need clipping?
No. This is a natural double-coated breed and clipping the body coat damages the coat's structure and insulation. The groom is about deshedding and light finishing, not clipper work over the body.
How do you get through so much undercoat efficiently?
The combination of a deshedding bath, a thorough high-velocity dry, and an undercoat rake worked behind the dryer is what moves the volume. Trying to rake a dirty, dry coat alone is slow and hard on the dog. Bath and blast first.
How often should a Bernese be groomed professionally?
Every six to eight weeks works well for most, with weekly brushing at home. During the big seasonal moults you may want to see them more often, as they blow coat heavily and the undercoat comes out in earnest.
What about the feathering on the legs and tail?
Keep it, comb it, and only tip ragged ends. The feathering is part of the breed's look. Owners who let it tangle and pelt are the ones who end up needing it clipped out, so encourage regular combing at home.
Written from the salon floor by Lucy, City & Guilds Level 2 & 3 qualified groomer and owner of Fluffs, a one-to-one dog grooming salon in Wigginton, York. For more professional grooming guides, explore the Fluffs grooming blog.