Feet are fiddly. Ask any groomer what part of the job needs the steadiest hand and the most patience, and paws come up every time. Dogs are sensitive about their feet, the skin between the pads is thin and awkward to reach, and a neat foot is one of the marks of a well-finished groom. Get the feet right and the whole dog looks sharper.
There are really two jobs rolled into one here, clearing the hair between and beneath the pads for comfort and grip, and tidying the outline of the foot so it looks clean. Let me walk you through both, safely.
Why pad and paw work matters
This is not just about looks. Long hair growing between the pads flattens under the foot and turns into a slippery pad of matted hair, so the dog loses grip on hard floors and can slide and strain. Hair growing long around and beneath the foot also traps grit, mud, grass seeds and moisture, which leads to matting, irritation and sore skin between the toes.
Keeping the pads clear and the feet tidy keeps a dog surefooted and comfortable. It also gives you a regular chance to spot problems early, cuts, cracked pads, lumps, grass seeds or interdigital sores, that the owner will want a vet to see.
Handling the feet kindly
Most dogs pull their feet away, and that is normal, not naughty. Support the leg in a natural, comfortable position rather than twisting it, hold the foot gently but securely, and go slowly. Fighting a dog for its feet only makes the next groom harder.
Talk to the dog, keep the sessions on each foot short, and give them a breather between paws if they need it. A calm foot is a safe foot to work on.
Safety note: Pad skin is thin and easy to catch. Only ever clip the hair you can clearly see growing out from between the pads, keep the blade flat, and never dig down into the webbing between the toes.
Clipping between the pads, step by step
For the underside of the foot I use a short blade, often a 10, held flat, to skim the hair level with the pads.
- Turn the foot gently so you can see the underside clearly and spread the pads a little with your fingers.
- Identify the hair sticking up between the pads, this is the only hair you are removing.
- Hold the blade flat and skim across the top of the pads, taking the hair level with the pad surface, never below it.
- Work carefully into the central pad area and between each toe, using the tip of the blade for control.
- Do not push the blade down into the webbing or scoop between the toes, as this is exactly where skin gets nicked.
The goal is simply to remove the hair that would otherwise mat and reduce grip, leaving the pads clean and the skin untouched.
Tidying the top and outline of the foot
Once the underside is clear, tidy the top. How much you do depends on the style, a natural round foot, a tight cat foot, or a fuller slipper foot on some breeds.
Comb the hair up and out, then scissor the outline neatly, following the natural shape of the foot. Use rounded-tip scissors near the toes for safety, and take small snips rather than big cuts. Tidy any long hair between the toes on top so the foot looks clean and defined without going bald.
Nails, a quick word
Feet and nails go hand in hand, so check the nails while you are down there. If they are long, trim them a little at a time, taking off the tip and stopping well before the quick, the pink area inside the nail where the blood supply runs. On dark nails where you cannot see the quick, take only small amounts.
Do not forget the dewclaws, the extra nail higher up on the inside of the leg, as these do not wear down naturally and can grow round into the skin if missed. If a nail is overgrown into the pad or you are unsure, advise a vet.
Finishing and checking
Once each foot is clipped and tidied, brush away loose hair and give the pads and toes a final look over. Check for anything sore, cracked or lodged between the pads, and make a note of anything the owner should watch or have checked.
Feet done well are quietly satisfying. They keep the dog comfortable and grippy, and they finish a groom off properly.
Frequently asked questions
What blade should I use for the pads?
A short blade such as a 10, held flat, works well for skimming the hair level with the pads. The key is keeping it flat and only taking the hair that stands proud of the pad surface.
How do I clip between the pads without cutting the webbing?
Spread the pads, work only on the hair you can clearly see sitting above the pad surface, and never push the blade down into the webbing between the toes. Use the tip of the blade for control.
Should I trim the hair on top of the foot too?
Yes, tidying the outline with scissors gives a clean, finished foot. Comb the hair up, follow the natural shape, and use rounded-tip scissors near the toes for safety.
What if a nail is overgrown or curling into the pad?
Take dark or overgrown nails a small amount at a time and stop before the quick. If a nail has grown into the pad or you are unsure how far to go, advise the owner to see a vet rather than risk cutting into the quick.
Written from the salon floor by Lucy, City & Guilds Level 2 & 3 qualified groomer and owner of Fluffs, a one-to-one dog grooming salon in Wigginton, York. For more professional grooming guides, explore the Fluffs grooming blog.
External references for further reading: Dog grooming (Wikipedia) and the dewclaw explained (Wikipedia).