If there's one thing I wish every dog owner did well, it's brushing. Not the quick pass over the top before you head out, but proper, regular brushing that reaches the skin. It's the most valuable thing you can do for your dog's coat between grooms, and honestly it does more good than most owners realise. So here's the why, the how often, and the which tools, from someone who brushes dogs all day.
Brushing isn't only about keeping your dog looking smart. Done regularly it prevents painful matting, keeps the skin and coat healthy, and gives you a weekly hands-on check that can catch problems early. Blue Cross and PDSA both treat grooming as part of essential care rather than a nicety, and I completely agree.
Why brushing matters more than you think
- It prevents matting. This is the big one. Regular brushing lifts out loose and tangling hair before it can felt into a mat. Mats pull at the skin, trap moisture and can end in a shave-down, and consistent brushing is what keeps a coat from ever getting there. If you'd like the full picture, we explain what causes matting in dogs in a separate guide.
- It keeps skin and coat healthy. Brushing removes dead hair, dirt and flakes, and improves airflow to the skin. A well-brushed coat simply works better, whether that's insulating a double coat or keeping a silky coat tangle-free.
- It spreads the natural oils. Every dog produces skin oils that condition the coat. Brushing distributes those oils from root to tip, which is what gives a healthy coat its shine, no product required.
- It's a health check in disguise. Running your hands and a brush over your dog every few days means you're the first to notice a new lump, a scab, a sore patch, fleas or a tick. Early spotting makes everything easier to deal with.
- It's good bonding. Most dogs come to enjoy being brushed, and those few calm minutes are a lovely bit of one-to-one time that also makes professional grooming far less stressful for them.
How often to brush, by coat type
There's no single answer, because it depends entirely on the coat type. As a rough guide:
- Short and smooth coats (Labrador, Staffie, Beagle): once or twice a week, more when they're moulting.
- Double coats (German Shepherd, Husky, Golden Retriever): a few times a week most of the year, daily during the spring and autumn moult.
- Silky and long coats (Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier, spaniels' feathering): daily or every other day, they tangle quickly.
- Curly and wool coats (Poodle, Bichon, Poodle crosses): most days, because the shed hair stays in the coat and mats fast.
- Wire coats (terriers, Schnauzers): a couple of times a week alongside their stripping schedule.
If you're not sure which coat your dog has, my guide to dog coat types team can help you identify it at a groom, and it's worth getting right because it sets your whole routine.
The right tools and how to use them
The wrong tool is why so much home brushing doesn't work. Here are the ones worth owning:
- Slicker brush. Fine wire bristles on a flat or curved head. The workhorse for double, silky, curly and wool coats. Use light strokes in the direction of hair growth; don't press hard, you want to lift tangles, not scrape the skin.
- Comb (metal, wide and fine). The most underrated tool. After you've brushed, run a comb through, if it glides from skin to tip without catching, the coat is genuinely mat-free. If it snags, you've missed a knot. The comb is your quality check.
- Undercoat rake. Longer, widely spaced teeth that reach the dense undercoat on double-coated breeds. Perfect for pulling out the loose underlayer during a moult. Draw it gently through in the direction of growth.
- Deshedding tool. A fine-toothed blade that grabs the loose dead undercoat. Brilliant on heavy shedders, but easy to overdo, use it sparingly and never on the same spot repeatedly, as it can irritate the skin. For a proper job, a professional wash, dry and deshed clears far more than home tools can.
- Rubber curry brush or mitt. Soft rubber nubs, ideal for short, smooth coats. It lifts loose hair, gives a nice massage and is gentle enough that dogs who dislike brushing often tolerate it happily.
Groomer's tip: Whatever brush you use, work in small sections and always finish by combing through to the skin. A slicker over the surface followed by a comb that catches means the job isn't done, that catch is tomorrow's mat.
Brush down to the skin, not just the surface
This is the point that changes everything, and it's the technique I teach owners most. Most matting starts in the layer of hair right next to the skin, exactly the layer that surface brushing never touches. So on any coat with length or density, brush in sections: lift a portion of hair up with one hand, then brush the layer underneath from the skin outwards, working up in thin layers until the whole section is done. This is often called line-brushing, and it's the same principle I use in the salon.
It takes a little longer than a quick once-over, but it's the difference between a coat that stays comfortable and one that quietly felts underneath. Pay special attention to the friction spots, behind the ears, the armpits, the groin and under the collar or harness, because those tangle first. And keep it positive: short, calm, rewarded sessions build a dog who's happy to be brushed for life.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I brush my dog?
It depends on the coat. Short coats need a weekly brush, double coats a few times a week (daily in a moult), and silky, curly and wool coats need brushing most days. When in doubt, more often and shorter is better than rare and long.
What is the best brush for my dog?
For most medium, long, curly and double coats, a slicker brush plus a metal comb covers you, with an undercoat rake added for heavy double coats and a rubber curry brush for short smooth coats. Match the tool to the coat, the wrong brush is why home brushing often fails.
Why does brushing matter if my dog goes to the groomer?
Grooming appointments are usually every 6 to 8 weeks, and a coat can mat within days if it's neglected between visits. Home brushing is what keeps the coat in good condition so your groomer can style it rather than have to clip out matting.
How do I stop brushing hurting my dog?
Use the right tool with a light touch, never yank at a knot, and brush in the direction of hair growth. Work in small sections down to the skin, keep sessions short and rewarded, and if you hit a mat that won't ease out gently, leave it for your groomer rather than pulling at it.
Fluffs is a professional dog grooming salon in Wigginton, York, offering one-to-one grooming for dogs of every breed and coat type across Haxby, Strensall, Huntington, New Earswick and the surrounding villages. If you'd like a hand choosing the right brush or learning to line-brush your dog's coat, just ask at your next appointment. Book a grooming session with Fluffs.