Mastering the West Highland Terrier Groom
A groomer's step-by-step guide to grooming a West Highland White Terrier, covering hand stripping, the sensitive Westie skin and shaping the classic round head.
The Westie is a breed I have a real soft spot for, but it is also one that catches a lot of groomers out. That bright white coat and busy little character make people think of it as a simple pet clip, and then the skin flares up, or the coat goes soft and yellow, and everyone wonders why. Get to grips with the coat and the skin, though, and a Westie is a genuine pleasure to shape. Here is how I work through one.
Underneath the white there is a proper harsh terrier jacket over a soft, dense undercoat, exactly the sort of coat that is built to be hand stripped. The breed was made to work, so that outer coat is meant to be crisp and weather resistant, not the fluffy cotton wool it becomes when it is clipped down time after time.
Skin first: the thing that makes or breaks a Westie
Westies are famous for sensitive, reactive skin, and you have to groom with that at the front of your mind. Many of them have a history of allergies, hot spots or yeasty skin, so I always part the coat and have a proper look before I start. Any redness, sore patches, greasy or smelly skin, or thickened elephant-like areas get noted and, where needed, the owner gets pointed towards their vet rather than a stronger shampoo.
This skin sensitivity is also a strong argument for keeping the harsh coat where you can. A correct hand-stripped jacket protects the skin and lets it breathe, whereas repeatedly clipping into a soft coat can leave the skin more exposed and, in some dogs, more irritable.
Welfare note: Never push a medicated or heavily fragranced shampoo onto an obviously sore Westie to try to fix a skin problem in the salon. Skin disease is a veterinary matter. Our job is to groom kindly, flag what we see and hand the health side over to the vet.
Hand strip versus clip
Hand stripping is the method that keeps a Westie looking and feeling right. Pulling the dead, loose top hairs by hand or with a stripping knife takes off the tips that carry the colour and texture, and encourages fresh harsh coat to grow through crisp and bright. It holds the white cleaner, keeps the jacket weatherproof and suits the skin.
Clipping is the everyday reality for a lot of pet Westies, and for an older dog, a poorly dog or an owner who genuinely cannot manage the upkeep, it is a perfectly kind choice. Just be honest that clipping cuts the coloured tips off and leaves the softer undercoat, so the coat goes softer, often yellows and loses its weather resistance over time. As with any harsh-coated breed, once you commit to regular clipping, getting a true harsh jacket back is a long haul.
Bath, dry and coat prep
Brush and comb the whole dog out first, paying attention to the leg furnishings and the skirt where mats gather. For a hand strip, I work the jacket on a clean, dry coat rather than a freshly conditioned one, because conditioner makes the hairs slippery to grip.
For a clipped or scissored dog, bath with a gentle, skin-kind whitening shampoo, keeping it well away from the eyes, and rinse thoroughly. Poor rinsing is a big cause of skin irritation, so be meticulous. High-velocity dry the coat straight, lifting the furnishings so they scissor cleanly, and use that time to blast out any loose undercoat.
Clipper and stripping work
Whether you strip or clip the jacket, the Westie shape stays the same. The body coat is taken down fairly tight over the back and sides, blending into fuller furnishings on the legs and the skirt along the underline. The neck and shoulders are cleared so the head reads as a distinct feature, and the tail is shaped into a neat carrot, wider at the base and tapering to the tip.
If you are hand stripping, work small sections in the direction of coat growth, taking the loose hair and leaving the tight new coat behind. If you are clipping the pet, run the blade or comb attachment with the growth over the jacket, then move to scissors for the legs, skirt and outline so nothing looks blunt or stepped.
Shaping the classic round head
The head is the signature of the breed, and the aim is that full, round, chrysanthemum look. Comb all the head coat out and up, then scissor it into a circle framing the face, with the muzzle blended in so the whole thing reads as one round shape rather than a face with a separate beard. Keep the coat out of the eyes, tidy neatly around them for comfort and visibility, and check the balance from the front and from above. A good Westie head is symmetrical, full and soft-edged, never boxy. The Royal Kennel Club breed standard is a useful reference for the proportions you are aiming at.
Finishing
Comb everything through, stand back and check the outline. The dog should look balanced, with a tight jacket, full furnishings, a carrot tail and that round, alert head. Tidy the feet round and neat, blend any hard lines, and make sure both sides match before the dog leaves the table.
Frequently asked questions
Why has this Westie's coat gone soft and yellow? Almost always because it has been clipped repeatedly. Clipping removes the harsh, coloured tips and leaves the soft undercoat, which mats more, holds stains and loses its crispness. Rolling it back to a hand-stripped jacket is possible but slow.
How do I keep the white coat bright without irritating the skin? Use a gentle whitening shampoo, rinse extremely well and dry thoroughly. Most Westie skin trouble I see comes from harsh products or poor rinsing rather than the dog itself. If the skin is already sore, groom kindly and refer to the vet.
How often should a Westie be groomed? Every six to eight weeks for a pet, whether clipped or maintained on a strip. Hand-stripped dogs may suit a rolling schedule where you take a bit of coat at each visit to keep it in constant renewal.
Should every Westie be hand stripped? Not necessarily. It is the ideal for the coat, but an old, unwell or genuinely stressed dog is better clipped kindly than forced through a strip. Read the individual dog and be honest with the owner about the trade-off.
Written from the salon floor by Lucy, City & Guilds Level 2 & 3 qualified groomer and owner of Fluffs, a one-to-one dog grooming salon in Wigginton, York. For more professional grooming guides, explore the Fluffs grooming blog.